The Mysteries of Snæfellsjökull
Snæfellsjökull stands as a captivating enigma, blending the characteristics of both a volcano and a glacier. Its allure has drawn Icelandic and English sailors to its waters since the 15th century, while Jules Verne immortalized its mystique in "Un voyage au centre de la Terre" in 1864. Despite never setting foot in Iceland, Verne was inspired by the myriad travelogues and drawings that depicted this striking mountain, which, at that time, was seen as the westernmost tip of Europe. Towering above the sea, Snæfellsjökull evokes comparisons to Japan's iconic Mount Fuji, its snow-capped peak a beacon for adventurers and dreamers alike.
The history of Snæfellsjökull is rich with secrets and strange tales. Among these is the chilling story of Axlar Björn, a notorious figure known for robbing and murdering travelers for sport during the 16th century. His heinous acts continued unabated, even targeting French scientists sent on an exploration mission by Henri II.
The region is also steeped in the supernatural. In Hellnar, locals recount tales of the Virgin Mary's apparition, witnessed by sailors who claimed to have seen her manifest in a cave under the cliffs. Furthermore, the explorer Guðríður Þorbjarnardóttir, born in 980 in nearby Laugarbrekka, made history as the first woman of European descent to give birth in America. Her life journey led her from Greenland to a pilgrimage in Rome, marking her as a significant figure in the annals of exploration.
As one ventures through the canyons and streams at the base of Snæfellsjökull, whispers of additional stories linger in the air. The mountain is imbued with an unseen energy, a frequency that resonates deeply with those who stand in its presence, evoking feelings that are difficult to articulate. This high-frequency region captivates the senses and invites a connection to the mysteries that lie within its landscape, ensuring that Snæfellsjökull remains an enduring source of intrigue and wonder.
Day 1
We board the Aurora, exchanging firm handshakes as we greet each other. An hour later, the moorings are released, and the Aurora glides effortlessly across the sea at a heading of 275 degrees Northwest. The morning meal is simple, yet the delightful aroma of Stephan's lunch begins to fill the cabin, setting our expectations for the day ahead. As we approach the glacier, the daylight fades, giving the impression that we can almost touch the ice with our sixth sense. We conclude our first day with a celebratory dinner, accompanied by a fine selection of wine, marking the milestone of our arrival.
Day 2
After a restful night's sleep, we gather to check the weather forecast and explore our options for the day. The skies are clear, and the glacier beckons us to venture forth. We board a Jeep waiting at Arnarstapi, which takes us up to the snow line. Equipped with skis, snowshoes, or sturdy hiking boots, we embark on our ascent of the glacier. Those seeking an extra challenge can utilize the provided ropes and gear to tackle the peak's highest point. Once we've reached our goal, we descend back to the sea and return to the Aurora, where another delightful dinner awaits us.
Day 3
With a focus on the weather, we consider our options for the day. Should we remain in Snæfellsnes for another adventure? A kayak trip between Arnarstapi and Hellnar sounds inviting, perfect for exploring the rugged seashore and observing the vibrant birdlife amid the hollow rocks. Alternatively, we could set sail back east during the night toward Reykjavík, pausing for an overnight stop in Hvalfjörður. Here, we can enjoy a soothing bath in Hvamsvík as we watch the Aurora anchor in front of us, complemented by ample food and wine to end the day.
Day 4
Hvalfjörður provides excellent sailing conditions; the seas are often smooth, yet strong winds sweep down from the highlands. Could we break our speed record on the return sail to Reykjavík? Along the way, we have the option to fish with a seapole in the fjord or discover Bagaluts on a hidden beach. With VHF Expeditions, the possibilities are endless.